I could see the shock of red hair across the crowded trade show floor. It was her. I had heard so much about this woman, but so much remained a mystery to me. It seemed like just yesterday when I first caught a glimpse of her in person at the MAKE UP FOR EVER boutique on West Broadway in New York City. But it had, in fact, been nearly a decade.
She was huge — maybe not in size, but certainly in presence — wearing all black, with gentle, yet focused, black-rimmed eyes and, otherwise, seemingly very little makeup. Dany Sanz, by just walking into the room, made an understated and powerful statement with certainty — I am an artist.
And here she was, at my trade show. Yes, Dany Sanz would be presenting her first Continue reading
How did you first develop an interest in make up?
Growing up in the ‘70s and early ‘80s, it would be hard not to develop an interest in make-up. When I was around 11, I found a big picture book on David Bowie at the library and I saw photos of the New Romantics from London at around the same time. The mix of future shock and nostalgia for an imaginary past inhabited by Marlene Dietrich and Greta Garbo. This became my initial motivation.
You are well known for your extraordinary creative artistry but you have an incredible body of work in beauty as well. Is there one type of work that you find more satisfying?
To quote Judy Garland,“You give the people what they want and then go buy yourself a hamburger.” I’m kidding, but there is some truth to that in the way that you should be flexible and do the make-up that’s appropriate for the project. The satisfaction comes from doing the best version of that work you can and in a relatively short amount of time so the energy at the shoot doesn’t go down.
What is the most challenging thing about being so innovative in your artistry? Do you feel the need to reinvent your work regularly?
It’s good to explore beyond your comfort zone. There’s a lot of making it up as you go along. It’s also important to know when to stop. Working with talented models, hair stylists performers, photographers and fashion stylists provide an atmosphere where Continue reading
How did you come to work on Welcome to Marwen?
Bill Corso called me and said he had this really unique project with Bob Zemeckis he thought I’d be great for.
Had you worked with Robert Zemeckis before?
I had never worked with him. I was really excited about it.
How does the process of creating a makeup design with Vfx work on a film like this?
It was kind of a weird thing because Billy said, “Do you mind if I design the makeup for the dolls and you recreate it on the humans?” I said, “Absolutely not. Do whatever you want to do.” First, we scanned all the actors at Gentle Giant Studios and got copies of their heads. Billy designed renderings of what the characters would look like as dolls in
Photoshop. Then I applied the design on as human beings. In the end, we wanted to have a meld of the two characters—the dolls and humans.
Tell me about the look of the characters.
They’re all characters in Mark’s (Steve Carell) life. Each one of these dolls had a specific character and look: Anna the Soviet (Gwendoline Christie); Carlala (Eiza Gonzalez) was a señorita-type chick; Suzette (Leslie Zemeckis) was a French
maid-type character; G.I. Julie (Janelle Monáe) was a woman from rehab. We scanned Steve because Continue reading
We thought it was fitting to start the week with this welcome note by our Editor/Creative Director, Michael DeVellis from the Fall 2018 Issue. The theme focusing on change, transition and moving forward, couldn’t come at a better time as we celebrate the launch of not only our Fall 2018 Issue, but also the 15th anniversary of The Powder Group. Thank you to our readers for your continued support and we look forward to continuing to bring you the best of the Pro Beauty Industry.
I have to tell you, I’m really excited about the future. I am excited because of what I know about it, and also what I don’t. I am excited for what’s next because that means change.
Change is good. Change can also be really, really hard.
Movement forward is a necessary part of life and business. Forward, by definition, tends to mean leaving something behind. That is where the hard part usually comes in.
Whether it’s about personal, professional or psychological change, moving from one stage, or place, to another, can bring about a lot of emotions. Emotions that, quite possibly, can seem contradictory to each other – liberating, nerve-wracking, exciting, terrifying.
Change is always interesting, sometimes difficult, often awesome.
But, at the end of the day, it’s not always for us to decide. Change is inevitable. Don’t fight it. Take a deep breath. Hold someone’s hand. Get ready for whatever is coming.
As we celebrate the milestone of our 15th year at The Powder Group, I can not help but Continue reading
Viseart has done it again with the Grand Pro Volume 2 Palette! This jeweled toned palette was exclusively curated by Alphonse Wiebelt of Muse Beauty.Pro and Viseart and contains 30 shimmering shadows, divided into six new formulas that were developed over two years. “The vision was to develop new textured pigments crafted in the traditional hand-pressed format that transcend dimension” It features new pigment technology and prismatic glitters, these shadows are ideal for accenting, highlighting and creating flawless sultry eyes.
Each shadow is housed systematically in individually magnetized pans within a folding easel making setup effortless to work with every client. Column 1 contains Crystalline Highlighter shades, that are a Continue reading
The Creative Arts Emmy Awards kicked off on Saturday September 8 and Sunday September 9th 2018, in Los Angeles at the Microsoft Theater. More than 40 awards were given out in various categories including makeup and hairstyling. This year’s teams of Makeup Artist and Hairstylists winners included Louie Zakarian and Amy Tagliamonti for Saturday Night Live, Eryn Krueger Mekash, Tym Buacharern and David Williams for The Assassination Of Gianni Versace: American Crime Story, Elisa Marsh for Westworld and so many more.
Congratulations to all of the 2018 Emmy Award winners! Please find a complete list of all winners in the makeup and hairstylists categories below.
Outstanding Makeup For A Limited Series Or Movie (Non-Prosthetic)
The Assassination Of Gianni Versace: American Crime Story – FX Networks
Eryn Krueger Mekash, Department Head Makeup Artist
Robin Beauchesne, Department Head Makeup Artist
Silvina Knight, Makeup Artist
David Williams, Makeup Artist
Tym Buacharern, Makeup Artist
Ana Lozano, Personal Makeup Artist
Outstanding Hairstyling For A Limited Series Or Movie
The Assassination Of Gianni Versace: American Crime Story – FX Networks
Chris Clark, Department Head Hairstylist
Natalie Driscoll, Key Hairstylist
Shay Sanford-Fong, Additional Hairstylist
Helena Cepeda, Additional Hairstylist
Massimo Gattabrusi, Personal Hairstylist
Outstanding Makeup For A Single-Camera Series (Non-Prosthetic)
Westworld – “Akane No Mai” – HBO
Elisa Marsh, Department Head Makeup Artist
Allan A. Apone, Key Makeup Artist
Rachel Hoke, Makeup Artist
John Damiani, Makeup Artist
Ron Pipes, Makeup Artist
Ken Diaz, Makeup Artist
Outstanding Hairstyling For A Single-Camera Series
Westworld • “Akane No Mai” – HBO
Joy Zapata, Department Head Hairstylist
Lori McCoy Bell, Assistant Department Head Hairstylist
Dawn Victoria Dudley, Additional Hairstylist
Karen Zanki, Additional Hairstylist
Connie Kallos, Additional Hairstylist
Norma Lee, Additional Hairstylist
Outstanding Prosthetic Makeup for A Series, Limited Series, Movie Or Special
Game Of Thrones – “The Dragon And The Wolf” – HBO
Jane Walker, Department Head Makeup Artist
Paul Spateri, Special Makeup Effects Artist
Emma Faulkes, Special Makeup Effects Artist
Barrie Gower, Prosthetic Designer
Outstanding Hairstyling for A Multi-Camera Series Or Special
RuPaul’s Drag Race – “10s Across The Board” – VH1
Hector Pocasangre, Hairstylist
Gabriel Villarreal, Personal Hairstylist
Outstanding Makeup for A Multi-Camera Series Or Special (Nonprosthetic)
Saturday Night Live Host: Tina Fey – NBC
Louie Zakarian, Department Head Makeup Artist
Amy Tagliamonti, Key Makeup Artist
Jason Milani, Key Makeup Artist
Rachel Pagani, Makeup Artist
Sarah Egan, Makeup Artist
Daniela Zivkovic, Makeup Artist
We wanted to feature our A Few Questions With Ryan Burke again, because we are so inspired by his talent and wanted to share not only his talent, but also a little piece of what makes Ryan, Ryan. What inspires him daily, who has been the biggest influence in his artistry career, what can season pros, along with artist just starting off in their career learn from him.
What inspires you right now? (and Why?)
Inspiration comes from anywhere – it could be architecture, it could be a plant. I get inspired by other people too occasionally, but I always take that piece of inspiration and pull it in my own direction. I think the important thing about “inspiration” is to spark an idea, not to replicate someone else’s work.
Who are three of the biggest influences in your career? (and how have they effected your career)
My first big inspiration in my career is my ex and close friend, Oscar Ambrosio. We basically started in nightlife together at a time when instagram was only retro film filtered pictures of scenery and pets and there were maybe a handful of people in the world who were turning conceptual looks. Both of us loved dressing up and it’s how I started getting into makeup and shooting myself. Nobody was really doing this yet – shooting looks and putting them on social media. Neither of us knew how to do makeup and because it wasn’t big on instagram yet there were hardly any tutorials or examples for us to work from so we inspired each other. We taught each other techniques that we’d figure out and pushed ourselves to try any and every idea that came to mind.
My next inspiration came when my friend introduced me to the work of Pat McGrath. I had been playing with makeup for a bit already but I knew nothing of major makeup artists. Seeing her work opened up my world. I was like “oh you can do THAT, you can take it THERE” so I started expanding on what I was doing and going more conceptual. My favorite was to do cut-out eyebrows because I couldn’t draw them on right at the time. I started with the regular eyebrow shape but it evolved to an obtuse triangle which became a signature shape for my style and has since been replicated by many people.
My third inspiration came when I moved to New York to be a more “serious artist.” I met Domonique Echeverria at Greenhouse and we became close friends. It was actually my intention to leave nightlife and makeup behind in order to actively pursue photography but her influence gave me new inspiration for looks and I started taking things to a whole new level – I added in better styling and began making headpieces. Her aesthetic influenced mine to be more refined and fashionable.
Can you tell us about a defining moment in your career? One that made you realize this was what you were going to do with the rest of your life.
To be honest, I’m not sure what I’m going to do for the rest of my life. I’m not just a makeup artist and I’m pursuing whatever opportunities come to me in various mediums. However, as far as taking makeup seriously as a professional artist, that moment came when I began working on Pat Mcgrath’s team. I not only learned to refine my techniques to a more professional level but, I also got the validation I needed that I could be successful as a makeup artist.
What advice would you give to a makeup artist or hair stylist starting out in the industry?
Pursue the style you like to do the most but, also allow yourself to develop in other types of makeup and hair. Not only will this open up more opportunities and make you more valuable as a versatile artist but there can be a lot of crossover between different types styles.
What is more important to you the work (a makeup artist or hair stylists artistic skill) or the artist (the person themselves – personality, professionalism)
Work comes first in my opinion. In the age of the social media makeup artist, there are a lot of “personalities” who do makeup. While this is a career avenue that works out well for some people, being a skilled artist will most likely get you a more long-term career in the end. I also feel that as a matter of integrity as an artist, I would prefer to have the skills rather than being a personality who can’t actually deliver when it comes down to it or just puts out the same regurgitated generic ideas that have already been done hundreds of times over.
What is the key to a successful work-life balance?
If you love makeup and it is your profession then you should be enjoying your work as part of your life. But apart from that, make time to be in nature and disconnect from the world. I always have a need to do this in order to keep myself inspired and motivated. It is very draining at times to work a lot – even if you enjoy it and taking some time away from that makes you appreciate things more and keeps you sane.
Photos courtesy of Ryan Burke Instagram @ryburk
From our Fall 2016 issue Spotlight: Carl Ray Makeup Artist to Michelle Obama. Carl’s flawless and iconic work speaks for itself, and we were fortunate to get a chance to sit down with him and get the inside scoop. Carl told us how he got his start in makeup, his experience working with and what he does when he’s not on-call with the first lady and much more! Check out the full interview below and don’t miss our A Few Questions With series also featuring Carl Ray during The Artist Summit 2017.
Be sure not to miss a chance to learn and get hands-on experience with Carl at The Powder Group program coming up in Chicago, August 6, 2018. Making Up with Carl Ray. For details and registration visit thepowdergroup.com
How did you get started in makeup?
I found my passion for makeup when I was 14 years old. My parents were going through a divorce, and I would watch my mom applying her makeup for work and for her new life in the dating scene. That’s when I got the makeup bug. I asked my mom if I could help her with her makeup application because I thought I could do it better than she did. She said yes. I could see the confidence and happiness that my makeup application was bringing her and that sparked my passion and purpose. I have always viewed myself as an artist and deeply connected to not only the creative process of makeup but the direct impact that it has on women’s confidence and self image.
Tell me about your experience working with the First Lady.
I had been working in Washington for years before I began working with the First Lady. I had grown my clientele to include political figures and VIPs who were local and also thosevisiting from across the country and around the world. I remember being super excited, and a bit nervous, the first time I Continue reading