What research did you do, and how did it influence your makeup design choices for Six Triple Eight?
I researched extensively once I heard about the project, even before being offered the position because I wanted to be prepared. I started by collecting images of Army battalions, the Women’s Army Corps, and makeup and nail trends from that era—both for civilians and women in the army, as well as men’s facial hair styles. I also examined military guidelines on men’s grooming in the US, UK, Italy, and Germany. Additionally, I researched the types of cosmetic products available during wartime in the US, considering the scarcity of supplies at the time. This was essential for making authentic product and shade choices when designing looks for each character. Furthermore, I researched how socioeconomic status and location influenced the styles and access to products for both women and men, which helped me craft each character’s looks.
How did you tailor the distinct looks to each character’s background?
Since each of the leading ladies was of different ages and came from various socio-economic and educational backgrounds, I took that into account when designing their looks. For example, Lena (Ebony Obsidian) was a high school senior at the start of the movie, and I aimed to create a look that highlighted her innocence and shy disposition, contrasting with Bernice (Kylie Jefferson), a switchboard operator from New York City. Bernice would be more exposed to fashion trends, so during the pre-recruitment scene, I wanted to give her a more polished look, featuring red lipstick and matching nails, while still keeping her natural to fit that time period. Then there was Johnnie Mae (Shanice Shantay), who came from a southern town working on farms and factories; for her, I opted for a very simple look of no makeup and unpolished nails. Lastly, in the scene where Major Charity Adams (Kerry Washington) and her battalion walk through the train station after their assignment in the UK, Kerry’s makeup artist, Sheri Knight, and I agreed that period-appropriate red lipstick would symbolize Major Adams’ strength and accomplishments while highlighting her feminine side.
How did you approach the contrast between the muted tones for Lena versus the more sophisticated looks for urban women?
At the start of the movie, Lena is 17, so it was important to highlight her youth and innocence. To achieve this, I used NARS Light Reflecting Advanced Skin Care Foundation and Radiant Concealer to give her skin a healthy, youthful glow. I focused on using cream products, such as Danessa Myricks Dew It Undercover Lip and Cheek Palette, which served as a subtle blush to add dimension so she wouldn’t look flat on screen under the period filters. I also applied a light dusting of Laura Mercier Setting Powder to areas that tend to get oily. By the time Lena joined the army at 18, I kept her makeup minimal to emphasize her innocence compared to the other ladies who were career women or college graduates.
How did you balance historical accuracy with creative expression when designing the looks for each character?
The content and period of the film were key in shaping each character’s look. Since the story is set during wartime, there were strict makeup guidelines within the army. I made sure to stay true to these restrictions while also allowing myself some creative freedom for certain scenes by incorporating more color. For instance, at Abram’s farewell party, I was able to incorporate period-appropriate eye and lip shades for the guests. To ensure the cosmetic shades were accurate to the era, I collaborated with Chad Hayduk of Three Custom Color Specialists. Their vast library of over 15,000 color shades dating back to the 1920s allowed me to create custom lipstick and eyeshadow palettes that reflected the colors available at the time.
Did you use specific techniques to convey the physical toll of military life on the characters?
During the opening battle scene, we stippled, airbrushed, and spackled a lot of dropper dirt, grease, and grime from Maekup and Fleet Street. Fleet Street’s fresh and dark blood, along with Skin Illustrator’s Grunge and Dirt palettes were essential in creating the injured, battle-worn looks of the soldiers. In the boot camp training scenes, we used Kryolan Transparent Jelly, Ultra Wet, and Aloe Gator SPF stippled to make the leading ladies appear sweaty, or applied sunscreen for that shiny, sweaty look.
Were there any products you couldn’t have worked without on this film?
The Fleet Street and Maekup dirt, grime, and grease, as well as EBA Endura Skin Tone Colors for tattoo cover. Covering tattoos was a huge part for the cast and background actors to stay within the time period. And the lip and eyeshadow palettes I had created by Three Custom Color Specialists.
Was there a scene in the film you were particularly proud of?
There were a few. The first was the White House scene, where all the iconic figures were in one room—President Roosevelt, Mrs. Eleanor Roosevelt, and Mary McLeod Bethune, all portrayed by industry legends. I remember thinking how happy I was in that moment. Everyone looked great, and I could finally breathe a little after doing makeup on Oprah and Susan Sarandon, and ensuring Sam Waterston’s look was executed well. The second scene was the pre-recruitment train scene, where all five leading ladies were together for the first time. We filmed it on an old historic steam train in Chattanooga, TN, so it was special to be in that setting and see the makeup, hair, and costumes all come together, along with all the background actors.
Words: Shannon Levy
Photos: Courtesy of Netflix