How did you come to work on Feud: Capote vs. The Swans?
I was contacted by production about three months before principal photography. Once I learned more about the show, I knew I wanted to work on it. These are women that have been so inspiring to me so I put it out into the universe!
What inspired your makeup design for creating the looks for Capote’s “Swans”?
I was inspired by the iconic looks of the real women that we were portraying and also by the makeup trends of the time periods. I always love a makeup progression in terms of changing colors, trends, facial hair, nails, etc. and this was the perfect job for us to showcase that.
Did you approach the makeup differently because the actors portrayed real people?
Whenever I go into a period piece, I spend hours researching the people being portrayed. For me, it’s always about the balance between portraying the actual person and finding a look that works for the actor or actress. So yes, I definitely put different kinds of extensive research into my prep work.
This series boasts an incredible cast with iconic makeup and hair designs, how large was your makeup and hair department?
On any given day there were four of us in the trailer, plus our background supervisor and a handful of additional makeup artists. Kyra Panchenko came on as Naomi Watts’ personal to transform her into Babe Paley. Our biggest days were when we shot Truman’s 1966 Black and White ball. We had around 30 additional makeup artists. I couldn’t have asked for a better team. Everyone nailed the looks and I couldn’t have done it without them!
Which episode was the most fun to execute in terms of makeup?
For the leading female characters, my team had fun shooting Truman’s 1966 Black
and White ball. The looks were so elevated and period-specific that it was like a dream for a makeup artist. It was such a great form of collaboration between makeup, hair, and wardrobe. To see it all come together was really something beautiful and special.
What was the most important makeup detail in getting the high-society look of the era right?
Lipstick! Lipstick is so indicative of the era and we were constantly researching and experimenting to make sure we got the shades correct. We used a lot of reds and pinks. A personal favorite was the Pat McGrath Labs Elson and Elson 2. We wanted to focus on colors that were representative of the women and which periods we were shooting in. We also took into consideration the character. For example, Slim (Diane Lane) wore more reds whereas CZ (Chloe Sevigny) gravitated towards more corals.
In addition to lipstick, what were the keys to staying true to the era?
I also closely examined every aspect of makeup, brow, nail, and facial hair trends that were popular during the times. It’s not just one element that I focus on but rather, the makeup and character as a whole. That’s how you really stay true to the era and the makeup for a period piece.
Do you have a favorite makeup you created for the series?
It’s hard to pick a favorite because all the actors and makeups are so iconic. However, I really enjoyed transforming Tom Hollander into Truman Capote. It was a fun challenge especially because Tom doesn’t look like Capote. The hair department head, Sean Flanigan, and I made a great team in achieving the look.
What did the makeup transformation into Truman Capote entail?
I had such a great time with Tom’s makeup. The transformation was incredible all around. Since we didn’t use prosthetics, it made things a little tricky but I’m always up for a challenge. There were little things I would do depending on the period and where we were in the story, but I really wanted to show Truman’s character through his makeup. I used a variety of products depending on what age Capote was. For example, in his younger years, I used lifts, more makeup coverage, and tightened up his under eyes. I used Koh Gen Do Moisture foundation to give him more of a healthy, youthful glow. As Truman ages and falls into despair, becoming more dependent on booze, I applied less coverage. I used various Skin Illustrator palettes to destress his complexion and break up his skin. I applied reds and browns to add texture and age spots and Skin Illustrator gels to enhance the circles under his eyes. I also went into his lash lines with red pencils to stress the exhaustion and addiction this man was facing. For some looks, I also added Maekup Dry Lips, and Maekup Psoriasis to the skin to show how unhealthy he was.
What were your must-have products on this set?
Some of our must-haves included Pat McGrath MatteTrance lipsticks, Perma Precisions liquid liners, and FetishEyes mascara. We also always love a MAC blotting powder!
What did you like best about working on Feud: Capote vs. The Swans?
It was a surreal experience being in the company of all of these iconic actors and actresses. I was surrounded by so much incredible talent and I am so grateful to have been able to have that experience.
Words: Shannon Levy
Photos: Courtesy of FX
