How did RCMA come about as a brand?
The Research Council of Makeup Artists, also known as RCMA was founded by our grandfather, renowned makeup artist, Vincent JR Kehoe in 1963. Vincent was an established professional makeup artist who had been working since Throughout his career, he oversaw over 3,000 major television, film, and stage productions. He was head of the CBS makeup department in New York, as well as the NBC Hallmark Hall of fame series. Vincent also served as the Director of Makeup for New York City’s International Beauty Show (IBS) for several years. Vincent was probably best known for the many books he wrote on the art of makeup. To this day many professionals say his books were the inspiration for them to become makeup artists and thank him for sharing his knowledge.
When film and TV were making the transition from black and white to color, Vincent noticed that the makeup being used did not translate well into color. At that time there were very few makeup companies that were dedicated to making products for professionals. We always say Vincent was a perfect storm of knowledge. He was a published photographer for magazines such as Time and Life, he had a degree in chemistry, and was a professional makeup artist. So he took his vast knowledge in makeup, lighting, and chemistry to come up with the Color Process Foundation for RCMA.
Can you share a little of the history of the brand after the launch? What were the biggest challenges when the brand started out?
I think the challenges were similar to any startup company. You must get the product into the right people’s hands, you’ve got to get it out there, and get it known. At the time, our grandfather was a full-time working makeup artist, as well as a photographer, so for the first couple of years RCMA was basically his side hustle. He believed strongly in the products and the company, but the first few years were very difficult. It wasn’t until the end of the ‘60s that things really started taking off.
Biggest challenges today?
Everything. No, but seriously, I think one of the things that differentiates us from others is we’re not just a brand, we are also the manufacturer. We do everything in-house from the concept to compounding the product, to pouring and filling, then packing it up and sending it out. It is all done in our facility. Take any challenges that a company has as a brand, and then add on top of that any manufacturing challenges. We are just a small family-run company. Many people have told us in the past that we should use a third-party manufacturer and just deal with the brand, but then quality can become an issue, as the old saying says, “if you want it done right, do it yourself” so that’s what we do.
Who runs the brand now?
We are still 100% family-run, we (Christian and JR Kehoe) run the company. We are third generation, our grandfather, our dad, and now us. We have a huge sense of pride in carrying on our grandfather’s legacy. This company has been in our family for 60 years.
How has the brand evolved over the years?
There have been a lot of modifications in the last 60 years. We have to adjust to the times. There have been so many changes in camera technology, ingredients, skin tones, lighting, etc., that we have to make the proper adjustments as well. At the same time, most of our products are always rooted from the original formulas.
Are there any key heritage products that are still in the line from the beginning of the brand?
Our Color Process Foundation for sure. Obviously, through the years we’ve added and subtracted from the line of shades and tones, but that was one of our original products. And of course, our No-Color Powder! That’s been around since the ‘60s as well.
What do you think has given the brand such longevity in the pro makeup industry?
I think there are several reasons, the quick answer is our products work and we are not a flashy company. We’re not out there chasing trends. We make a good product that performs well and sells at a good price. Another reason and probably the biggest is our versatility. You can use RCMA foundations for everything from the red carpet to HD, to 4K, and everyday wear. Also, I think we run our company with integrity. We are known for our quality and consistency. A makeup artist must be able to rely on the product in their kit to perform properly so that they can do their job. If we make products without gimmicks and stick to quality that can be depended on, I think we will always have a market.
What is the most satisfying part of running such an important legacy business?For me, it’s when I see a makeup artist online saying that we are their “secret weapon” or go-to, “ride or die” product, or that they couldn’t do their job without us. That is special. After all these years, it really means something to us. We take it personal, that’s our name on the box, it’s not just another product. We do everything from scratch, so when someone likes and appreciates the hard work and love we put into it, it means a lot to us.
What is coming next for RCMA Makeup?
We are very excited for the next 60 years! We have a lot o f ideas, you will have to just wait and see.
Words Michael DeVellis
Photos and Inteview Courtesy of Christian and JR Kehoe