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ON SET SHARON MARTIN + HEDDA

How did you come to work on this project?
I’ve collaborated with Plan B on several projects before, so when my agent at The Milton Agency was contacted to check my availability for Hedda, I jumped at the opportunity. I was eager to work with Nia DaCosta and such a talented cast. I’ve admired Nia’s work for a long time.

What inspired the overall makeup and hair aesthetic for Hedda?
The overall look for the makeup and hair for Hedda was inspired by films like Carmen Miranda, Breakfast at Tiffany’s, and Gosford Park. I wanted a rich, colorful palette suited for an ensemble piece. Since all the action unfolds over a single evening, continuity became essential. Entertainers and party guests needed visible levels of breakdown as the night and dancing wore on.

Did you and Nia DaCosta envision a modern or period evocative palette, and how did that shape your approach?
Nia, Tessa, and I envisioned a modern interpretation of the period. We wanted a palette with a very deep, rich hue, that blended modern and period. Relocating the story to midcentury England gave us freedom to design looks that feel both the era and timeless.

In what ways did Tessa Thompson’s portrayal of HeddaGabler shape your designs?
Hedda is a character driven by control and power, so I designed strong perimeter shapes in her hair to act as a kind of armor, masking her vulnerability. Her look is always composed and polished. To maintain that, she had a daily blow-dry to straighten her naturally curly hair, which required careful hair care. K18 was one of the products we relied on to preserve her hair’s health. That attention to care also made the final act more impactful — when Hedda unravels, we see her natural hair, exposing her raw, fragile self and underscoring her precarious place on the edge of convention.

What was your design process like for the other characters in Hedda?
I wanted the characters to reflect a modern sensibility while still being rooted in their time. The fact that this group of people were artists and writers, they could be style influencers of the period. There were some characters who were forward-looking, so they reflected an early 1960s aesthetic, while others remained anchored in the late ‘40s and early 1950s. For Tessa, I looked to icons like Harry Belafonte, Joyce Bryant — the “Bronze Blonde Bombshell” — Dorothy Dandridge, and Audrey Hepburn. Their elegance and individuality helped shape Hedda’s look, balancing modernity with period inspiration.

Can you tell me about the look of Nina Hoss’s character?
Nina Hoss plays Lovborg, an academic with a history of alcoholism. For her, I designed a look that balanced restraint with fragility. Her hair is shorter and looser than would typically be expected for a woman of her age and social standing during the period, signaling both defiance and vulnerability. Her skin appears flawless beneath a carefully constructed surface. I used Suqqu cream foundation for its strong coverage, set with Laura Mercier powder, to create that immaculate first impression. When she dives into the lake after her manuscript, that polished façade collapses. The makeup breaks down completely, leaving her bedraggled and desperate, exposing the fractured woman beneath the armor.

Given that Hedda is a reimagining of Ibsen’s play, did you lean into historical references, or pursue a more contemporary interpretation?
The film strikes a balance — a contemporary spin on a period aesthetic. By marrying modern and historical elements, we created a look that feels timeless.

What products were your go-tos on this project?
For hair, Ultra Wet was a Godsend for wet hair continuity. Armani’s classic 400 red lipstick was a staple. For men’s styling, J.Crew Molding Wax helped define shapes and textures — ranging from George’s slightly disheveled academic look to Roland Brack’s sharp, well-groomed short afro, played by Nicholas Pinnock. That afro, very true to the period, helped bring his character to life.

Is there a specific look or moment in the film you are most proud of, from a makeup and hair standpoint?
It’s difficult to single out one, as the makeup and hair in the movie is telling a story from start to finish. The film takes place entirely over one evening at a party, so each character’s gradual unraveling had to be mapped with precision. That said, the moment when Hedda herself fully collapses — we t  vulnerable, and exposed to the world — is a particularly powerful culmination. It’s the point where everything we built visually comes undone, and the raw truth of her character is revealed.

Words Shannon Levy
Photos Courtesy of Amazon Studios

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