Where were you born?
I was born in the Midwest, Ft. Leavenworth, Kansas. My parents met during the Vietnam war in 1972. At the time, relations with Vietnam were really bad and my father had to ask for permission from his commanding officer who was stateside to have me born in the states. My mother was granted access and that’s how she came to the states in 1973.
Where do you live now?
New York City. When I was 12 years old, we had just moved back to the states from Central America and I saw Desperately Seeking Susan on cable. It was that movie that made me want to live in New York when I was “grown up”.
What’s your sign?
Virgo to a tee.
When you were young, what did you want to be when you grew up?
I always knew I wanted to live in New York City but not necessarily knew exactly doing what. In high school I had written somewhere in my yearbook that I wanted to be an art director at Vogue but I kind of fell into makeup in my early 20’s instead.
How did you get your start in makeup?
When I was in college in 1992, I was an art history major. I had gotten a job working at Nordstroms in Seattle for holiday as a gift wrapper which was supposed to be a temp job. A girlfriend of mine who I used to go to raves with, got me the side gig for some extra cash around the holidays. Our wrapping station was in the cosmetic department and the manager really liked me. I was always hanging out with the cosmetic girls playing with makeup and that’s where I fell into it. When holiday was ending, she told me about a new makeup brand coming to the store and ask if I was interested in working the counter- it was MAC cosmetics. I did and thats when I met both Franks (Toskan & Angelo) at the opening and where I fell in love with the craft.
How did you know that the makeup artist industry was where you wanted to be What was your first memorable work as an artist?
I learned a lot working at the counter and also working at a salon. With both jobs you’re being of service through your creativity, but they both challenge you psychologically too because you’re also troubleshooting and dealing with different personalities every day.
I didn’t know there was a world outside of all that until I met someone who worked on films. Thats when I realized that was something I could pursue in New York working in fashion. When I eventually came to New York, it was a struggle. Even when I arrived and started assisting one of the biggest makeup artists at the time, it was difficult getting paid on time. So you’re hustling, saving, breaking even and the struggle was real. After 5 years of all of that in fashion, I had my first celebrity opportunity with Molly Ringwald and that’s when I decided to switch gears and focus more on celebrity rather than fashion. The jobs weren’t as long and the pay was so much better!
What are the things about working in makeup that you love?
I love the people, the friendships you form with other artists, hairstylists, photographers, stylists, designers etc. It’s the collaboration of creating together that’s always something I loved. Its a different world now and some artists will never experience the same opportunities we once had which is a shame.
What are the things about your work that makes it the most interesting to you?
What I love is that every day can be different. Working with different folks, different creative direction and even locations. As an artist that’s exciting because it brings on new challenges and new opportunities!
What are the challenges you face working as a freelance artist?
Understanding the business of being a freelance artist. It takes a long time to truly understand the balance of it all and you have to not be so hard on yourself when things don’t happen the way you think it’s supposed to. It’s hard chasing down the money that’s owed to you and even having an agent, isn’t always the best strategy for some folks. Once you understand your business and flow, it then leaves you open to create and that’s the best feeling when you get to that point in your career. It’s not overnight but you’ll get there.
Was there ever a time when you thought you’d give up?
Hell yes! When I first moved to New York and hustling as an assistant I was so broke! It was those desperate times where I also felt the most creative because you had to be creative to troubleshoot. I remember not being able to afford a liquid eyeliner once and then figuring out that I could use the formula of mascara with a fine brush to get the same result.
What should someone who is looking to develop a career in makeup know before getting into the business?
Your journey on the path to artistry will constantly evolve because the nature of the business continues to change. Because of it, know you’ll have to be adaptable to its ebbs and flows and then will you understand what that success looks like for you.
What are some of the most important qualities that a makeup artist can have?
Good listening skills, patience, creativity, artistry, etiquette on set, knowledge of fashion and makeup history, cultural knowledge and references. Not only do you need to be talented, you have to also know how to problem solve gracefully and kindly at times too.
What makes you a good makeup artist? How do you continue to grow as an artist?
After 25 years in this business, I pride myself on the authentic relationships and friendships I’ve made in this industry. You realize over time you forget about the actual makeup work you do, but always remember the people and the stories around the project instead. Your passion and artistic integrity eventually evolves as you get older and you make a lot of realizations along the way. Be open to that change rather than fight it and you’ll find the success you want in the end.
What has changed most about the industry in the time that you’ve been working in makeup?
So much has changed and social media has become a huge part of it. How do you share your artistic expression? What you share and when to share all contributes to the work you do. But you, the artist, needs to decide how you choose to be relevant in those spaces. Yes, social media has become the new portfolio body of work that can sell your skills, but it doesn’t need to define who you are and how you show up. That’s the struggle for a lot of up and coming artists and it takes time to figure it out.
Do you have a signature style?
I think my style is about glowing radiant skin and enhancing someone’s best features.
What type of work do you find most satisfying?
I love red carpet because of the collaborative process with the stylist and hairdresser when creating that special moment for an actress.
Do you have a project that you’ve done that you are especially proud of?
I created a custom lipstick with Tatcha for Maggie Gyllenhaal for the Oscars in 2022. She wore Schiaparelli couture and I wanted a deep brown plum lip for her. Very French goth. I love product development and that’s where my heart is right now.
Do you ever get stuck creatively?
You definitely get stuck creatively as an artist and product development gets me out of that box to look at makeup differently. There’s so much new technology in color cosmetics right now and it’s very inspiring when you can flex it.
What project did you have the most fun working on?
I worked an episode of SNL with my client Maya Rudolph who hosted a couple years ago and that was historic for me because I grew up watching that show. To be there live, and understanding how that machine works was mind blowing and so memorable!
What project was the most challenging?
Being a makeup key for runway shows is always a bit challenging because not only are you flexing your artistry and executing the designer’s vision, you’re also managing artists, models and so many personalities.
Do you prefer one type of work to another?
I came up in fashion but I’m fortunate that I’ve been able to experience so many other creative opportunities in makeup. It’s hard to choose because it also depends on the context of the gig too.
What would your clients say is the best thing about working with you?
My chill demeanor. It’s only makeup, we’re not curing cancer.
Is there someone you have always wanted to work on who you haven’t had the chance to do yet?
I would love to work with Tilda Swinton. I love her timeless look and she has so much grace.
What inspires you?
Art, photography, music and street culture.
Whose work do you admire?
Besides my friends and colleagues and the greats I grew up on, I don’t really follow a lot of new artists though I should. I’m not on Tik Tok and I limit myself on Instagram so I’m a bit out of the loop.
What’s next for you?
I have a few exciting projects coming up so stay tuned!
Words Michael DeVellis
Photos Courtesy of Daniel Martin
