When you were young, what did you want to be when you grew up?
I wanted to join the circus. I went to Mime Schools in London and Paris where we learned juggling, all that stuff. Minor problem: I am not so coordinated.
How did that transpose into makeup artistry? How did you get your start in makeup?
I’m not sure how this transposed into makeup artistry, except I loved performance characters, theater, etc. I got into makeup because I was that friend that always would do your makeup, and then I was living in London and my bestie went to makeup school, so I was like, “Wait, what? You can go to makeup school?!” I had no idea this was a possible career. The school I went to was awesome. All the teachers were fun young makeup artists, so they were super up on fashion. After that I moved to Los Angeles and got my start in music videos, which were pretty low budget and fly by the seat of your pants. I used to do hair, give haircuts, the works, and never went to hair school. It was like, “Oh, and can you bring an iron, too?”
If you hadn’t gotten into makeup what do you think you’d be doing right now?
That is a very big question. It is so hard to picture myself doing anything else. Especially since my career has spanned beyond just artistry. I have been so lucky I got to be a product developer, packaging designer, marketer, trainer, teacher, and entrepreneur so I kind of feel like I have done so much.
How did you know that the makeup artist industry was where you wanted to be?
Initially, it was one of those…well, I am not going to college so I need to know how to do something interesting I can support myself with.
What was your first memorable work as an artist?
I worked on the Michael Jackson In the Closet music video. I was hired to do the dancers, and then Naomi Campbell didn’t vibe with the makeup artist hired to do her, so I took over. She was awesome. We had the best time, and it’s an iconic video.
What are the things about working in makeup that you love?
I really like making people feel beautiful, happy, and confident; it’s super gratifying. I always love the collaborative process in photography when the fashion editor, hair, and photographer all come together to make a great image.
What are the things about your work that makes it the most interesting to you? What are the challenges you face working as a freelance artist?
Being freelance is rough. You need to be super intact as a person. You experience a lot of rejection, and it’s important to remember they just chose someone else that day. It doesn’t mean that you aren’t talented or capable. It just wasn’t “your job”. It’s important to be kind about other people’s success. We all get jealous sometimes, but that’s on us, not on the person on the other end, and owning that makes it easier. So, like saying to yourself, “Ahhh I really wanted that job or client I’m so green right now,” instead of “I can’t believe so and so got that job they aren’t even good.” Own it and move on. You will be in such a healthier mindset. Live within your means, save money, and take the pressure off to have more freedom to choose your path.
Was there ever a time when you thought you’d give up?
Never!
What should someone who is looking to develop a career in makeup know before getting into the business?
Well, there is a lot to know, from honing your skills to managing a freelance lifestyle. Sometimes, there’s a lot of work, and occasionally, you need more preparation for that. Know your references to great iconic photographers, designers, iconic looks from runways, red carpet moments, etc. Knowing the past will make you a more talented artist.
What are some of the most important qualities that a makeup artist can have?
Skills and the willingness to constantly be improving those skills, knowing how to read the room, when to work quietly, when to help lighten the mood, and confidence. It’s hard to stay positive and not take things personally, so this helps, being able to take feedback and be easy about it. Say someone comes with, I am not sure about that lip. Just be easygoing about it like, “Sure, let’s try a few things quickly and see what works.”
What makes you a good makeup artist?
I would say all of the above, and also, I am fast and can pretty much do any kind of makeup, and I know my references!
How do you continue to grow as an artist?
I love seeing what’s coming from runways, chatting with other artists, seeing something that looks cool, and trying it out. Also, since I make makeup, I have had good luck working with formulas I develop that do what I like
What has changed most about the industry in the time that you’ve been working in makeup?
I think there are so many more artists now, so it’s tougher to get into for sure, but there’s a huge variety of work. Also, social media artists didn’t exist when I started.
How has social media affected your career or work?
It really hasn’t for me.
Do you have a signature style?
I am known for doing really perfect glowing skin. I think this comes from working back when retouching wasn’t such a thing. If they had to retouch your work, you were in trouble.
What type of work do you find most satisfying?
I love photo shoots editorials where you can be creative and collaborative.
Do you have a project that you’ve done that you are especially proud of?
I’m really proud of what I am doing with my new brand Neen. I set a goal of making clean formulas in color cosmetics that were better than a traditional formula, and I feel I accomplished that. I also want to create new, genuinely sustainable packaging, so I invented the silicone compacts that we use. They are so cool, durable, washable, refillable….and everything else also has an environmentally conscious design.
Do you ever get stuck creatively?
It can happen on a shoot. I did one shoot for Japanese Vogue. It had to be all orange —eight different photos—so I ended up doing weird things like I brought a sifter and orange pigment and just sifted it all over the face and neck. Or I painted the fingers up to the knuckles in orange pigment with an orange lip but, yeah, it was a mission.
Do you prefer one type of work to another?
I love fashion photo shoots because of the collaboration and seeing everything come together. Plus, with a model, it’s easier. Celebrities usually have ideas about how they want to look, which is fine, it’s just more limiting.
What would your clients say is the best thing about working with you?
I think I do makeup that is impactful but you still see the person. I think they would say I make them feel beautiful.
Is there someone you have always wanted to work on who you haven’t had the chance to do yet?
Well, she is long gone sadly, but I always wished I could have done Audrey Hepburn’s makeup.
What inspires you?
I am inspired by the challenge of pushing myself and bringing my best or better than the last job. It’s funny, I think of makeup as not only painting on a face but an emotional response as well.
Whose work do you admire?
I admire so many of my fellow artists. Kevyn Aucoin is still my number one, though.
Words Michael DeVellis
Jeanine Portrait David Dunan
Photos Courtesy of Jeanine Lobell
