ON SET: LOUIE ZAKARIAN + SATURDAY NIGHT LIVE

How long have you been Department Head on SNL?
Ive been Department Head at for the past 25 years. It’s so crazy to think about it seems like yesterday I was doing my first show. I still get butterflies in my belly when the band starts playing the music during warm up.

How has working on SNL changed the most over all those years?
It has changed drastically. With the switch to HD it all had to change. The colors we used became more vivid. Every little thing showed. With prosthetics it really made a difference painting and application had to change. Before HD if there was a little edge you couldn’t see it but in the HD world everything had to be film quality.

This season I’ve started to do a lot more 3-D printing and 3-D scanning. In the past if we had to build a prosthetic for a host or cast member we would do a lifecast. But now I have every host Come in on a Tuesday and I scanned them just to be prepared in case.

How does 3D printing effect the process?
In the past if the host needed a prosthetic I would not get them in for a life cast until Thursday afternoon or end of day. But now because we have our 3-D printers and 3-D scanners I have the host come in on Tuesday do a head scan which takes about 10 minutes and then print their head overnight so that if I have to read through on Wednesday I need it I have it and it’s ready to go.

While in Covid lockdown I was trying to think of how we can still do Continue reading

ON SET: ERYN KRUGER MEKASH + HILLBILLY ELEGY

How did you come to work on Hillbilly Elegy?
A wonderful producer I worked for on My Sister’s Keeper called me and asked if I was available. My pal Patrica Dehaney and Amy Adam’s makeup artist Kate Biscoe put together a shortlist of people they thought would be good for the film, and I was chosen for the project. Very exciting!

The story revolves around a family who don’t necessarily take great care of themselves physically, Mamaw is a heavy smoker, Bev is a drug user, they are poor and presumably don’t eat healthily. How do you reflect their lifestyle through makeup design?
I knew that skin texture plays a part in reflecting lifestyle. Matthew Mungle created the prosthetics and did the initial test on Glenn so I had a template. After our makeup tests with cameras and lighting I knew I needed to pump up the details. Matthew liked what I did with Glenn and I adjusted as each lighting scenario changed. Mamaw was in the sun and was a smoker and a high stress lifestyle. Patty and I made sure we could see that; the rest was Glenn’s amazing performance.

Amy has beautiful skin with fine pores (and so does Glenn). I worked with Dave Anderson of AFX to create two Continue reading

EVOLVE: D’ANGELO THOMPSON + 100 DAYS OF GRATITUDE

How did you come to write 100 Days of Gratitude?
In January of 2018, I started reflecting on my life, and had deep gratitude for all the seen and unseen blessings. For years, I felt like something was in my heart that needed to get out and three books flowed out of me that year, the first one being, ‘A 100 Days of Gratitude’.

How long did it take to write and what was your process like?
I worked on it daily for about four months. It took one month to edit, and then I sent it to my editor. Keep in mind, I was working on three books simultaneously. I sat on it for over a year and then 2020 unearthed a perfect storm and then my “Guides” said, release it NOW. 

How does the book serve the reader in their discovery of Gratitude?
The book is intended to just plant a seed about Continue reading

CAREER: DEHSAWN HATCHER + ASSISTING RULES

When and why did you decide to write Assisting Rules?
It was a few years after an assistant had ruined a client relationship I had, stole images, and passed them off as hers. Adding insult to injury she wound working with them. To this day I still have no clue what she said.  I was still so hurt by the whole thing and I realized there wasn’t anything explaining the rules of assisting, nothing just a few blog posts.  I began to write comprehensive assisting articles on my blog and noticed how they took off. When I noticed that my blogpost had been rewritten in several languages, I knew I was on to an audience who desperately wanted to know more about assisting.  I thought if we all understood the role and those unwritten rules may be less assistants would be prone to backstabbing (well probably not her lol). I live by that Oprah saying, “When you know better, you do better.”

Although it is focused on assisting there are so many great areas of focus in the book. What are one or two of the most important other parts of the book to you?
Oh boy, there are so many things in there. Research, which is really the first half of the book. I am a huge pusher of research. Getting the reader to pinpoint what they want and to focus on it constructively. Teaching people to research and to understand and decipher what they are looking at, and then applying them to their career goals is a priceless tool. Those skills carry over to every area of our lives when we want something. When you become informed the better chances you will have at not wasting your time and getting what you want. I have people who are not even in our field who have followed me on YouTube who have purchased Assisting Rules, and write to me it has helped them in their career goals-ain’t that something?! 

The book has become a must-read in the pro makeup and hairstyling realms. Why do you think it has been so well received?
So many have told me the book is relatable. Many find the layout extremely easy to follow. I give real world explanation and situations, so it is easy for everyone to Continue reading

INDUSTRY NEWS: 2021 GUILD AWARDS NOMINATIONS

Congratulations to the nominees of the 8th Annual – The Make-Up Artists and Hair Stylists Guild Awards (MUAHS). The awards program celebrates the outstanding achievements in makeup and hairstyling in motion pictures, television, commercials and live theater in twenty one categories.  All winners will be announce at the reimagined virtual gala on Saturday, April 3, 2021 which will be broadcast internationally. Tickets to the event are free to all who register.

This year will also celebrate the distinguished careers of Matthew Mungle, Oscar and Emmy winning makeup artist, and Terry Baliel, Emmy winning hair stylist, who will both receive the Continue reading

ON SET: SHARON MARTIN + JINGLE JANGLE: A CHRISTMAS JOURNEY

How did you come to be involved with Jingle Jangle
I became involved in Jingle Jangle when the writer director David Talbert sent me the script, which i read and immediately fell in love with the project, from a standpoint of seeing Black  representation in a positive, fun way. The very idea of Afro hair in a Victorian setting was too exciting not be get involved

What was the design process like?
The design process was a very collaborative one, David Talbert has been working on the project for over twenty years, so to have their trust to bring your ideas to the table was generous of them and liberating for me. I worked with a concept artist to present early ideas and launched from there.

How many makeup artists and hair stylists were on your team?
My core team was made up of myself, a Key Makeup Niamh O’Loan, Key Hairstylist Kat Fa, Laura Blount as crowd supervisor, Klara Levring junior makeup and hair and trainee Angella Appiah. We also had a regular team of Continue reading

CAREER: MARIETTA CARTER-NACISSE + PLANNING FOR SUCCESS

When did you publish your first makeup artist planner?
I published my first makeup artist planner, named  MUA Weekly Planner in 2013. It’s hard to believe that was eight years ago.

What made you want to create it?
The planner actually came about as I was creating my own quarterly calendar for my  live online classes. I did not want my classes to conflict with existing ongoing makeup events like The Makeup Show, IMATS, The Powder Group educational programs and other events. As I started plugging my own dates into my calendar, I discovered three very important elements. First, there was no central listing for makeup events. Second, some of the existing events had conflicting dates. Third, aspiring artists cannot attend events they don’t know exist. The planner became a way to address all three elements.

How has it evolved since your first edition?
For starters, it has doubled in size. I rebranded in 2017 and changed the name to The Official Film & Television Weekly Planner and added the film strip graphic, which is now permanent on every front cover. I did this because anyone can use this planner. I also discovered the underground world of planners, where people have “planner parties” where you add stickers, tabs and Japanese washi tape. There are more note pages for quick thoughts, journaling, goal setting and action plans, vision boards. There are certain consistent pages such as a suggested grooming kit list, makeup kit list, monthly events, income and Continue reading

EVOLVE: KARIM ORANGE + CLEAN BEAUTY

What is clean beauty?
Clean Beauty is an umbrella term that encompasses phrases such as eco, green, non-toxic, gluten-free, vegan, natural, organic, blue, sustainable.

What the elements of a product that makes it clean?
It’s really the ‘lack of’ certain ingredients that make it clean. The website EWG.org (Environmental Working Group) is a great place to really did deep into ingredients (since there are 1000’s). Also, look at the EU’s (European Commission) list of ingredients they don’t allow in Europe that we still, unfortunately, allow here.

What is the difference between clean and natural?
Natural means sourced from nature. Back in 2019, the Natural Cosmetic Act defined the labeling of natural to mean that products sold or labeled as Continue reading

ON SET: MA RAINEY’S BLACK BOTTOM + MATIKI ANOFF + MIA NEAL + SERGIO LOPEZ-RIVERA

We had a chance to chat with the makeup and hair team behind the captivating Ma Rainey’s Black Bottom. Makeup Department Head Matiki Anoff, makeup artist to Viola Davis, Sergio Lopez-Rivera and Hair Department Head Mia Neal, share techniques and behind-the-scenes stories from reviving Ma and her band in the Netflix film based on the play by August Wilson.

How did each of you come to work on this project?
Matiki: I worked on Fences with Denzel Washington and Viola. At the end of that production, Denzel told us he had the whole catalog of August Wilson’s material, and at that time he told us we’d be doing one project a year. So, I came to the project through the producers Denzel and Todd Black.

Sergio: I was working with Viola on How to Get Away with Murder for six seasons. She told me this project was coming, but by the time I got a phone call from producer Dany Wolf I had already said yes to going over to London to supervise Bridgerton. Long story short, Bridgerton didn’t need me anymore so I called Dany and told him I was still available. I got lucky.

Mia: I’ve worked with the costume designer, Ann Roth, several times and I’ve worked with Continue reading

ARCHIVE: REALITY CHECK WHAT DO YOU WANT US TO KNOW?

We are at a crossroads in our society — one that is long overdue — and addressing the single most important area of social justice our country has struggled with since its birth. As far as we may have come in some people’s eyes, the truth is that, while we been moving forward slowly, we continue to also take steps backward in this fight.

The beauty industry, and makeup artist industry in particular, may be making an effort in many cases, but is it enough? Is that effort focused on the right things? Our  perspectives are irrelevant if we are not walking in the shoes, and the skin, of our Black brothers and sisters in beauty.

We wanted to understand, from the Black makeup artist community themselves, what we can do better as an industry. We want to understand what we don’t know about the Black experience as a makeup artist. So we ask simply — What do you want us to know?

Thank you to the 100 artists who participated in this program and everyone who is helping us listen and learn during such an important time.

Michael DeVellis
Editor, On Makeup Magazine

Beauty brands, please hire Black makeup qrtists and experts to consult when creating products for black skin. It is important that to have experts in this area to guide you in
product development so that the products actually represent who you are selling to.  Adeola Gboyega

All we want is the same respect and consideration as other artists — to not have to work twice as hard to be thought of as half as good. Aina Lee

For years we, Black creative artists, lived in the shadows of the industry and now as our color is being celebrated its time to highlight its true essence. AJ Cimson

Judging a book by its cover will only take Continue reading